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POSSUM BOX
This is page one of three. To get the complete instructions you need to read three pages: This one, the
design page, and the 'baffle' page.
Building a possum box is a great way to keep wildlife close - without having them move into your roof!.
You can buy ready-made boxes, but we have provided some basic dimensions for those who want to make up their own boxes.
There are boxes for various possums and birds. We have included designs for brush-tails, ringtails, and sugar gliders. For other plans, we suggest buying the 'Nest Box Book' which is published by the Gould League of Victoria.
Some construction tips apply to all possum boxes,
and they are included this page.
For example, it is
important to use a building material that is hardy and provides some
insulation - without breaking the bank!
We think the best material is12mm plywood
or untreated pine. These are reasonably hardy, and not too expensive (try asking for cover sheets or seconds).
It needs to be at least 10mm to provide insulation. Do not use wood such as chipboard
(that will start to fall apart after the first decent rain) or treated
pine (which is toxic if gnawed on by the possum).
To get the complete instructions you need to read three pages: This one, the
design page, and the 'baffle' page. Click
here
to go to the next page.
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Fastenings
Use screws and glue to hold the construction together.
They will last longer and hold greater weight than
nails. |
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Box Tops
Optionally, you can arrange the top so it can be opened for inspection, but latched closed for protection.
An old inner tube provides a 'hinge' and weatherproof seal. |
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Box Bottoms
The bottom should fit inside the sides and be screwed in
from the side, giving greater strength. Drill at least four 5mm holes
in the bottom for drainage. |
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Finish
The wood doesn't have to be smooth,
but a good coat of sealant or UV resistant paint on the exterior
helps the box last longer. Seal the edges well, as that is where the water gets in. Choose a colour that blends in with the surrounding bush. (Browns and greens work well) |
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Baffle
This is a screen that hides the entry hole from view,
and helps stop feral birds from occupying the box, as they will
prefer hollows they can fly directly into. Click
here for details of baffles. |
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Ladder
Attaching wire mesh (no sharp edges), or other device on the inside AND outside of the box under the hole to help juveniles climb.
A small branch fastened to the under the entrance hole will give the possum something to grab onto while entering and exiting his home. |
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Attachment to the tree
Attach to the tree trunk in two places for security. You may have to improvise to suit the tree, but use materials that are not going to perish or be gnawed by the possums. A loop of wire or chain over an overhanging branch is a good option. Sheathing this in an old hose helps protect the tree.
Attach the bottom using a flexible metal strip and nailed to the tree with a couple of heavy gauge flat head nails. Don't drive these nails in all the way, allow for the growth of the tree and the possibility of relocating the possum box in the future. |
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Placement
The box should be at least 4 meters from the ground, to provide protection from pests, and a bit of privacy! It
should face away from prevailing winds, and not
face towards the afternoon sun. (A baffle helps
where it is not possible to avoid both the winds and
direct sunshine.) |
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Timing
Don't let the possum near his new home until the paint smell has disappeared. If you already have a possum in captivity, let him get used to the box before transferring to the tree. If you are trying to attract a possum, you can put some fruit in the box - but remember to take it out before it goes off!! Few good homes will remain empty for long if there are possums in the area. |
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